Lugu Lake is not only a blue lake – it also has a large golden wetland: Caohai.
Many visitors head straight for Lige Peninsula and Daluoshui and miss Caohai. In fact, Caohai is the best place at the lake for a stroll, photography and birdwatching. This article explains how to enjoy Caohai.
What is Caohai
Caohai is part of Lugu Lake, on its southeastern side, near Luguhu Town in Sichuan.
Because the water here is shallow and thick with reeds and aquatic plants, from a distance it looks like a golden meadow – hence the name "Caohai" ("grass sea").
Caohai covers about seven square kilometres, the largest wetland of Lugu Lake. In winter the whole wetland turns golden, and migratory birds fly in to overwinter – a beautiful sight.
The Walking Marriage Bridge
Over Caohai stands a wooden bridge called the Walking Marriage Bridge.
It was originally called "Caohai Bridge". When tourism was developed, the name was changed to "Walking Marriage Bridge", after the legend that Mosuo men and women crossed this bridge to reach their walking-marriage partners' homes.
The bridge is not long – about 300 m, a ten-minute crossing. It is usually busy with visitors, and you may queue for photos.
But the bridge's real value is not the "walking marriage" gimmick: it is the best vantage point for the full Caohai panorama. Standing on the bridge, you see golden reeds on one side and blue lake water on the other – rich layers of scenery.
When is Caohai at its best
Winter (November to March): the best season. The reeds turn golden, migratory birds arrive, and photos come out best.
Summer (June to August): Caohai is green and pretty, but without the golden layering of winter.
Spring (April to May): the reeds are just sprouting, tender green and fresh.
Autumn (September to October): reeds begin to turn yellow – a transitional colour, also nice.
What birds can you see at Caohai
In winter you can see many migratory birds at Caohai.
The most famous is the black-necked crane – a national first-class protected species that flies down from the Tibetan Plateau to overwinter at Lugu Lake. Besides cranes, there are bar-headed geese, ruddy shelducks, black-headed gulls and dozens of other waterbird species.
The best place for birdwatching is near the Walking Marriage Bridge; birds are most active in the early morning and at dusk. But do not get too close, and do not shout – if the birds are startled, they will fly away.
How to get to Caohai
Caohai is on the Sichuan side of Lugu Lake, near Luguhu Town.
Self-driving: navigate to "Walking Marriage Bridge". There is a free parking lot, but in peak season it often fills up; if it is full and you park on a local farmer's plot, you may be charged ¥10–20.
By car hire: charter a car for the lake loop and ask the driver to drop you at the Walking Marriage Bridge.
How long to spend at Caohai
An hour and a half to two hours is enough.
Walk the bridge back and forth, take photos, watch the birds, then stroll along the wooden boardwalk beside Caohai. No need for a full day.
If you have spare time, sit in a lakeside café by the reeds and just watch the reed beds.
How is Caohai different from Lige
Visitors often ask: Caohai or Lige – which is more worth visiting?
Lige: the best lake scenery. Blue water, peninsula, pig-trough boats – the classic postcard image of Lugu Lake.
Caohai: the best wetland and birdwatching. Golden reeds, wooden bridge, waterbirds – the other face of Lugu Lake.
Both are worth visiting. If you only have time for one: on your first trip, choose Lige; if you love photography, nature and quiet, choose Caohai.
Things to note at Caohai
Do not step into the grass. Underneath Caohai is mud – step in and you can get stuck, which is dangerous. Always stay on the boardwalk.
Do not frighten the birds. Wintering birds are sensitive; loud noise or approaching too close makes them fly away.
Do not litter. Caohai is a wetland ecosystem; rubbish pollutes the water and harms the birds.
Do not swim in Caohai. The water is shallow, muddy and thick with plants – swimming is very dangerous.
Caohai is the other side of Lugu Lake – not the blue, busy, tourist-packed side, but the golden, quiet, wild side. If you have time, do go for a walk there.
Related reading: How to Tour Around Lugu Lake: The Complete 70 km Loop Guide · The Creatures of Lugu Lake: Migratory Birds, Cosmos Flowers and a Lake Recovering
