Caohai and the Walking Marriage Bridge: Lugu Lake's Wetland Guide

Many visitors to Lugu Lake look only at the blue lake and miss Caohai. Caohai lies on the north side of the lake and is an 8 km² wetland. In autumn the reeds turn golden and water birds wheel overhead - one of the most photogenic spots on the lake. This guide covers what Caohai is, when to visit, and what you will see there.

What is Caohai

Caohai is not a sea; it is a shallow section of Lugu Lake. According to the book Lugu Lake: Regional Habitat and Cultural Evolution:

Area: 8 km²
Location: northern Lugu Lake
Character: shallow water thick with reeds and aquatic plants

Because the water is only 1-2 m deep, it is filled with reeds, water chestnut grass and cattails. From a distance it looks like a sea of grass, hence the name Caohai ("grass sea"). In the dry season much of Caohai is marshland; in the rainy season the water rises and it becomes part of the lake again. The scenery changes through the year.

What to see at Caohai

1. Reed beds

Autumn (October-November) is Caohai's finest season. The reeds all turn yellow and ripple like ocean waves in the wind, glowing gold in the sunlight. Many photographers come specifically to shoot the reeds.

2. Water birds

Caohai is home to migratory birds. Every winter birds fly down from the north to overwinter here. Common species include:

Wild ducks
Herons and egrets
Geese
Various other water birds

In winter you can see flocks of water birds darting among the reed beds.

3. Water flowers (Haicaihua)

In summer, small white flowers called Haicaihua bloom in Caohai. These flowers demand exceptionally clean water and grow only in very pure conditions. When they bloom, the water surface is dotted with white blossoms - a lovely sight.

4. Mosuo herding

Beside Caohai, Mosuo people drive cattle and horses into the wetland to graze. Cattle and sheep grazing leisurely in the reed beds make a scene of their own.

What is the Walking Marriage Bridge

The Walking Marriage Bridge spans Caohai - a wooden bridge crossing the whole wetland.

Many people assume it is where the Mosuo practise walking marriage. In fact it was not.

Its real purpose:

The bridge was built for crossing the water. Villages on either side of Caohai had no road in the past, so this bridge was the only way across. Mosuo people crossed it to visit relatives, go to market and walk marriage. Over time it came to be called the Walking Marriage Bridge.

The present bridge is a rebuilt wooden structure about 300 m long. Standing on it, you look out over reeds on both sides, with the wind blowing through - very pleasant.

When to visit Caohai

Autumn (October-November): best

Golden reeds, fine weather, soft light and comfortable temperatures - the most photogenic season.

Winter (December-February): birds

The reeds have withered, but you can see many migratory birds. Fewer visitors and a quieter atmosphere.

Summer (June-August): water flowers

Caohai is lush green and Haicaihua is in full bloom. But summer is the rainy season; photography depends on luck.

Spring (March-May): uncrowded

Caohai is just turning green and quiet. Scenery is average compared with autumn.

How to visit Caohai

Getting there:

Caohai is on the Sichuan side of Lugu Lake. From Daluoshui it is about a 40-minute drive. You pass it on the loop around the lake, so there is no need for a separate trip.

Tickets:

Caohai and the Walking Marriage Bridge are free, included in the Lugu Lake scenic area ticket (¥70).

Time needed:

About an hour to walk the bridge; two hours if you want to take photos.

Notes:

1. Do not step into Caohai - there is mud underneath and you can get stuck

2. Do not pick reeds or Haicaihua; it damages the ecosystem

3. Do not shout - it scares away the migratory birds overwintering here

4. Be careful on the bridge when it is crowded

Caohai vs the main lake

People often ask the difference between Caohai and the main body of Lugu Lake:

Depth: main lake averages 40 m, deepest 93.5 m; Caohai is 1-2 m
Colour: main lake is deep blue; Caohai is emerald green / golden
Aquatic plants: main lake has few; Caohai has reeds, cattails and Haicaihua
Water birds: main lake has few; Caohai hosts many migrants
Best for: main lake - boating and lake views; Caohai - photography, birdwatching and the wooden bridge

In short: the main lake is for water, Caohai is for grass. See both for the complete Lugu Lake.

The ecological value of Caohai

Caohai is not only beautiful; it plays an important ecological role.

1. Purifying water

The aquatic plants filter impurities and keep the lake water clean - a natural water purifier for Lugu Lake.

2. Habitat for migrants

Caohai is a stopover and wintering ground for many migratory birds. Without it, these birds would have nowhere to go.

3. A Mosuo resource

In the past Mosuo people cut reeds, fished and herded in Caohai. It was part of their lives. Fishing and herding are now restricted for environmental reasons, but Caohai remains an important place in Mosuo memory.

Summary

Caohai is an 8 km² wetland on the north side of Lugu Lake - golden reeds in autumn, flocks of birds in winter, Haicaihua in bloom in summer. The Walking Marriage Bridge spans it, once a crossing for the Mosuo and now one of the lake's landmarks.

When you visit Lugu Lake, do not stop at the blue water. Spend an hour on the bridge and among the reeds, and you will find another side of the lake.